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The vegan way, as Amanda Grant explains in the introduction to The New Vegan, excludes "all meat, fish, poultry, animal milk, honey and by-products derived from animals". Vegans eschew animal products of all kinds. (In fact, as she tells us later, debate rages in vegan circles over the use of honey, since collecting it doesn't actually harm the bees.) The resulting diet has had its unsavoury side--one thinks of the slightly creepy cans of vegetarian sausages that health-food shops used to stock--but in many ways now seems more and more sensible. Amanda Grant is definitely on the side of the angels as far as taste and ease of preparation are concerned. Nut loaves requiring five hours preparation and as much cooking are absent from The New Vegan: instead, Grant gives recipes built round a Mediterranean base of raw, grilled or roasted vegetables, pasta, couscous or rice; or a more Asian repertory drawing on curries, coconut and vegetable soups, satays and noodles. A very generous section dealing with Desserts incorporates many fruit recipes, but finds room for more traditional puddings, such as a version of Treacle Tart, before climaxing (if that's the word) with the Chocolate Raspberry Hazelnut Cake that Amanda Grant swears she would not have included unless it proved to be "gooey in the middle as all good chocolate cakes are". --Robin Davidson
